Cabinets or tile first?

Question from Shannon: 

I am rebuilding my kitchen and putting new cabinets and floor tile in. The question I have is, should I put tile down on the floor under my cabinets before I install new counters or install the cabinets then put down on the floor up to the cabinets? 

Jake's answer: 

Shannon, 

When installing tile in a kitchen, I would set the cabinets and then I would install the tile. Install the backer board before you install the cabinets and make certain to place the cabinets on blocks of wood equal to the height of the tile. This will allow you to install the dishwasher and it will maintain the proper height from the tile floor to the counter top.

Interior finishing for a four-season porch

Question from Carole: 

What is the best interior finish for a 4 season porch. I have been told that drywall should be avoided. I live in Michigan. 

Jake's answer: 

Carole, 

By a 4 season porch I assume you must be referring to a porch that is opened to the elements. If the porch is not opened to the elements, drywall would work fine. If opened, I suggest a fiber cement product manufactured by James Hardie. You can get lots of information on it at JamesHardie.com These panels come in various sizes and textures. It is a very durable, it is paintable and it even comes in pre-finished panels.

Lowering a firebox

Question from Mike: 

I have a house with a stone fireplace that starts in the basement with one fireplace opening and also has fireplace in a raised floor living room upstairs. I want to lower the raised floor by three feet. The ends outside look like square clay pipes. Can the upstairs firplace firebox be lowered? 

Jake's answer: 

Mike, Yes, it can be lowered. It will most likely require you to dismantle the chimney down to the new firebox level and rebuild the fireplace from the new floor level on up. If you live in a ranch style house (one story) this may not be too big an undertaking. If you are in a two story, the project will be a little more involved. It would be a good idea to have a qualified mason take a look at it. You can usually find a good mason at the local brick and block supplier. Check his/her references out before engaging them in the job.

Countertop pricing

Question from Chris:

Jake I am looking at updating my countertops. How much does Icestone cost per sq foot? I have about 25 square foot and for silestone it will cost me around $1800 for removal and install. 

Jake's answer: 

Chris, I went to Megan, one of our design consultants for help on this one. This is Megan’s response: It will depend on lots of things. Smaller projects are going to be a higher square foot price then a larger project. I will also list some ballpark pricing for the Vetrazzo. Ballpark price Icestone range $125-$175 per square foot. Vetrazzo  range $110-$200 per square foot.   Prices vary depending upon color and project size. I know this it quite a range, but hope it helps. The Vetrazzo is sold in the following slab sizes......54" x 30", 108" x 30", and 108" x 30".

Another soffit challenge

Question from Sally: 

I have started the exciting task of removing the ugly soffit in my kitchen. I have knocked out about 5' so far and there is nothing to relocate but I've encountered a few things I don't understand: every foot or so there is a support board, about an inch thick, between the ceiling and the cabinets. Are these boards ok to take out or are they there for actual ceiling support? Also, I could really use some step by step directions...do you know of a good website to help me with the wripping down and then the building up of my endouverous project? 

Jake's answer: 

Sally, Thanks for writing. I assume those pieces you are talking about are the vertical members placed there to help stabilize the top and bottom framing boards. They shouldn’t have any structural need. Regarding a web site, try this. This site has some pretty good detail on how to lay out a soffit and even how to build one.

Removing, while keeping, a window

Question from Marie: 

Hi Jake, 

We are planning to install built in cabinetry in our dining room. In order to do this we will be sacrificing a large 40"x60" window. We would like to panel over the window so you do not see it from the interior, but still see the window from the exterior so that the exterior wall still looks balanced. What can we cover the window with so that the paneling isn't seen from the exterior? I assume we cannot just leave the pleated, honeycomb shade between the new wall of cabinets and the window. What would you suggest? Thanks  

Jake's answer: 

Marie, 

We have covered windows in the manner you are suggesting. We took a pre-finished white board, like melamine (MyWhiteboards.com). On the interior side, you might have to install some cross braces behind the melamine board so the board does not warp. From the exterior, it looks like a shade is drawn. On the interior, remove the window trim and if necessary, install drywall flush with the window jamb. Then install drywall tape at the joints, tape, fill and sand. The down side of doing it this way is if the melamine board, because of heat or moisture, might not perform. If you are in a direct sun exposure, I don’t suggest you do this. Another option is to remove the window, install new siding on the exterior, install window trim as if there is window, then install shutters in between the trim so it looks as if there is a covered window behind the shutters. This will provide the relief you are looking for on the exterior.

Remodeling online?

Question from Amy: 

I live in an older home (1889) and would like to remodel the kitchen, it is terribly inefficient and outdated. But are there any online design help-sites? We need help with the design/layout process. Take out walls? Put what where? Thanks so much. 

Jake's answer: 

I don’t know of any online design services and if I did I probably wouldn’t recommend them. You should find a knowledgeable kitchen designer and sit down with that person and share your thoughts on what you are looking for in your new kitchen. The kitchen design process is too important and detailed to do online. Go to NARI.org, the web site of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry, and see if they have any kitchen design firms in your area.

Vapor barriers

Question from Mark: 

I'm in the process of remodeling a mud room and want to know if I should vapor barrier the ceiling after put insulation up. We plan to have the room heated during the winter months. 

Jake's answer: 

Mark, Vapor barriers go towards the warm side of the insulation, so you would want to install the vapor barrier first. If you are using kraft faced batts, the kraft paper will act as your vapor barrier. Otherwise, you should install a plastic vapor barrier.

Going granite

Question from Katie: 

My husband and I are thinking about purchasing pre-made granite slabs for our kitchen coutners. The slabs are bullnosed on 2 sides once on the long side and on either the right or left. The problem is, we want to use the slab on a peninsula so we need to bullnose the 3rd side, but the slab is only 24 inches wide and if we bullnose the third side, it will be too narrow for the counter width. We heard that you can buy granite edge pieces that just attach to the existing granite and are already beveled. Where can we get those and how much do they cost? 

Jake's answer: 

Katie, I have never heard of these edge extenders you talk about. I can’t imagine how they could be applied by a homeowner with any assurance they would stay on. The type of counters you described work ok in typical installations but you most likely will have to have a granite fabricator make the peninsula top.

Mystery drain

Question from Jeff: 

Hello Jake, I removed the old rusty drain grate (12"x12")in my basement floor and discovered an open hole with standing water (and drain flys and larve). Also, the hole is just lined with loose bricks and there seems to be some type of pipe with a ragged edge near the waterline. During heavy rains water will rise up into the basement. Can you tell me whats going on here and how I can cover this up. Thanks, Jeff 

Jake's answer: 

Jeff, It sounds like to me that this is an old sump pit without the sump pump. The pipe you see is most likely the end of the drain tile that is at the base of your foundation. It collects the water that rises in the wet season. You need to install a pump and pipe to handle the water when it rains. If you can’t do this type of job, call a foundation specialist in your area.