Three seasons

We are converting our screened-in porch (12x13ft on the existing 4' deep concrete slab) into a 3-season room (with insulated windows, 3'ft wall, and an insulated door.) The enclosed porch has a flat roof with deck (balcony) on top. 

We live in the extreme weather (heat/humid/ wind/ & cold) of Chicagoland. Hence, insulation and condensation are always our key concerns. As far as building experience, we are totally intimidated when dealing with exterior structure. What is the best way to insulate the enclosed porch and avoid mold problem in the future? Should we put a house wrap or foam sheaths on the exterior framing before putting on the insulation bat in between the wall cavities? We plan to use PT plywood (not siding) as the exterior wall though. Also, would the PT plywood being exterior wall whist having gypsum sheathing for interior wall appropriate for the circumstance? We haven't put much thought into the floor insulation just yet. Sigh. Thought an area rug will do for the time being. =P Thank you for reading and for your advice.

Anna,

Your questions would indicate that you may be biting off more than you can handle.  What you are asking pretty much covers the whole “building envelope” idea.  I do not know the exact building requirements in Chicago, so if I was you, I would find a reputable designer or supplier that could walk you through the insulation requirements.  I assume a 3 season room means you will not be using it in the winter months.  Does this mean you will not be heating the room?  If you are not heating it, then the insulation requirements really are not that important, since you are not using energy to heat and retain the heat in the room. 

In our area, Kansas City, the floor requires a R-19 (6”), and the ceiling requires a R-38 (11”) plus the ventilation area.  Check out a foam product called Icynene.  This product requires less thickness to deliver more R value and since it is closed cell, it does not require any air space.  Conventional insulation requires ventilation to minimize condensation. 

Un-insulated concrete slabs are very difficult to keep comfortable in cold climates, since concrete is a very conductor of heat and cold.  Have you considered a heated floor.  They make these types of rooms very toasty on those chilly days.  Here’s a link to a flooring company we use -  warmlyyours.com

Galley kitchen resources

I live in a small tudor home with a galley kitchen. I know it would be very expensive to add on (I also need new appliances) so just wanting to get some resources for ideas. Thank you

- Barbara

 

Barbara,

We have some photos of galley kitchens on our web site.  In fact, they are some of the most highly rated pages on our site.  

I would suggest you find a couple of reputable kitchen designers, interview them to see who you would be comfortable in working with, and enter into an agreement with one of them to start working on the design.  You can go to the National Kitchen and Bath Association’s web site, and enter your zip code for a designer in your area.  You can also go to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry’s site, for a list of Certified Kitchen and Bath remodelers.   Both associations provide trained professionals in kitchen design and in most cases the initial visit does not cost you anything.  As with most things in life, you will get what you paid for. 

Hidden in the soffit

Hi Jake, I have a soffit in my kitchen that I would like to remove to place 42 inch cabinets. I have an old home built in the 30's which had plaster walls. I removed the soffit wall so that I could also add insulation, but I found two pipes that come out about 4 inches from the wall. I don't have the money to pay for a professional to remove or relocate them and wanted to know what options I might have when adding drywall and hanging my cabinets. Thanks much.

-Michele

Michele,

We too have run into concealed items when removing a soffit.  Sometimes pipes as you have described and sometimes wires and duct work.  

You have three options: 

1.  Re-install a soffit on the wall where the pipes are located.  

2.  Relocate the pipes so they will be either set in the wall or ceiling area above.

3.  Cut out the cabinet backs, tops, or both so the cabinets can be installed “around” the pipes.  

We have done the 3rd option then we built a wood covering for pipes to be installed inside the cabinets. If you choose the 3rd option, you might have to reinforce the cabinets, depending on how much you cut out. You most likely will void any warranty on the cabinets as well.  Good luck. 

Whole house tiling

I am buying a 1980 home with horrible carpet and laminate floors. I would like to put ceramic tile down in the entire house. I have had almost every flooring known to man and tile is by far the easiest to take care of and one I least worry about with company. Does it look strange to have tile in the entire house? The ceilings are 8ft and the den is the only really large room. I live in Texas and we do use tile more than in other areas and being cold is really never an issue. Thanks for your help!

-Carri

Carri,

I have seen several houses that are completely tiled and they looked really nice.  The tile is usually light and neutral.  Most of the homes I saw were located in the south, for whatever reason.  Maybe it’s due to the “coldness” of tile issue.  You can always use area rugs to help break it up and add a design flare to a room.  

Go for it. 

Arch door

Hello Jake. I have bought my first home and in the bedroom is a drywall bullnose arch to the bathroom - no door.  I don't really like this.  I have tried to find an inexpensive interior arch top door, but to no avail. 

Ideally, I was thinking arch top white pane glass for light, but it seems now I have to find another route. The arch matches the other doorways, so I did not want to reframe it.  

Any suggestions?

- Kate

Kate,

Whatever you do, it most likely will have to be custom made, based upon a template you make of your arch.  I would assume that the sides of the arch, the point where the vertical sides go from vertical to the start of the arch, are lower than a standard door height, 6’8”.  So if you infill the arch with glass or drywall, the door most likely will have to be cut down. 

You could take a solid core door, hold it up to the arched opening and draw a line on the door.  Deduct ¼” for clearance then install the door.  That would be the easiest method. 

The other idea would be to have a millwork shop make a custom door. That would be more expensive.

Your idea of installing a piece of glass makes sense to me, too bad you can’t make this work.

Good luck.

Jake

Changing a cabinet door angle

Just finished a kitchen remodel, only to find the kitchen designer designed us a flaw. Our top cabinet next to the stove will open to a 90 degree angle but in doing so hits the corner of the stove fan cover. In time I can see the cabinet door ending up with a nice gouge right in the middle of the door. Is there something we can use to to adjust the door from opening to a full 90 degree angle.

-Deborah

Deborah,

I have seen this problem before.  It’s one of those design details that gets forgotten but can be a real nuisance when you are using your new kitchen.  It really hurts when the new cabinets get a scratch or gouge. 

The best remedy I have seen is to attach a piece of small chain on the inside of the cabinet face frame to the inside of the door.  Set the chain length so when the door is opened it is at least 1” short of allowing the door to hit the range hood.  After a while, you will get used to opening the door without yanking the chain. 

Other than for this problem, I hope you are enjoying your new kitchen.

Jake

Behind the soffit

We are planning to remodel our bathroom and kitchen. We want to remove the soffits in both rooms. What is under the drywall and how difficult is it for us to do.

- Terri

Terri,

Removing the soffits is not too difficult. Behind the soffits, we have found plumbing pipes, heat ducts and wires.  Not always, but sometimes.  Some of these can be pretty challenging to relocate.  If you have reason to believe that you could find some of these things, you could cut a hole in the face of the soffit, large enough to stick your head in with a flashlight and take a good look.  If you find any pipes, wires or ducts, call a professional to have them relocated. 

Fireplace tile

Hi Jake, I have a natural gas fireplace insert with about 10 granite tiles surrounding it. There is a firmly secured mantle surrounding the granite tiles. Is it possible to install slate tiles directly over the granite ones? Would this be too heavy for a typical wall? What procedure should I use? 

Thank you, 

Holly

Holly,

You could install the slate tiles over the granite.  Weight should not be a problem.  The best way to do it is to install a ¼” backer board over the granite, like a Hardie board.  You would screw this board to the granite and then you could install your new slate over the top of the backer board.  These boards are available in 3’ x 5’ sheets.  You can find these boards, or something equivalent, at most drywall suppliers, flooring stores or home centers.   

Lowering a fireplace

We are remodeling our home and would like to lower the fireplace. We a two story home and this is the only opening to the fireplace. We have already removed the harth. What is involved in lowering the fireplace?

- Sara

Sara,

The fireplace can be lowered.  If you have removed the hearth, you probably found that it is separate from the firebox.  The fire box will have to be lowered.  This should only be done by an experienced mason.  It requires extensive removal and rebuilding of the box, smoke chamber and attachment to the flue.  If done improperly, you could have a dangerous situation on your hands.  Check around the fireplace stores in your area for a list of qualified masons. 

Space between bed and bath

Our bathroom has bedrooms on both sides all the plumbing was on the right wall ,sink toilet and bathtub, we flipped bathtub fixtures to left wall, My question is the wall that it is now on is only 2x4 deep between bathroom and bedroom was there a minimum space that must be in between that wall.

- Deborah

Deborah,

There is no minimum that I am familiar with, a 2 x 4 is fine, and actually quite common.  We typically install insulation in the wall to help cut down on the transfer of noise between the two rooms.  Other than that, you should be fine.